Wednesday, March 21, 2007Las Ramblas/Slaughtered Lamb
I have not, traditionally, gone out and done very much on St. Patrick's Day. For a while, this was because I stopped drinking (oh, so many days wasted on sobriety). And for a while, this was because I was going through a cranky phase and didn't want to combat drunken masses crammed shoulder-to-shoulder in a New York pub. These are no longer concerns for me. As for temperance, I have returned to my Scotch-Irish roots. And as for drunken crowds crammed into pubs, I have discovered that I actually enjoy the convivial revelry of such a gathering.
So in the year 2007, I decided it was time to go out and have fun on St. Patty's Day, even if my Irish ancestors were Protestants. England shipped my Scottish ancestors to the Americas as slaves, and I still rooted for them during the World Cup, so I'm over things, even if others are still fighting over Cromwell. But somehow, I ended up celebrating the first half of St. Patty's sitting in tapas bar Las Ramblas (http://www.lasramblasnyc.com/). Nothing says Ireland quite like tapas and white berry pomegranate sangria. But what could I do? About a week ago, I woke and realized that all I wanted to do for the foreseeable future was eat Spanish or American Southern food , and it seemed like a good time to start. I picked Las Ramblas at random out of the Time Out Dining Guide, rounded up a couple friends, and braved the ice-encased outside world to dig into some ham and cheese croquettes. Of course, the beauty of tapas is that when you are faced with one of those dining experiences where there are a multitude of things on the menu that look tempting, you don't have to chose. You can just order them all. So our group ordered Gambas San Martin (shrimp in garlic, white wine, and lemon), Setas al Jerez con Almendras (sauteed mushrooms with almonds in sherry wine), Albondigas (roasted meatballs with garlic, manchego cheese, and oregano dressing), Bocadillos Crujientes (crispy little sandwiches with York ham, mahon cheese, and piquillo peppers), and of course Croquetas de Jamon. Just in case that wasn't already too many plates to fit on our tiny tables, we threw in the Mejillones al Jerez (Prince Edward Mussels in tomato sherry wine sauce) and the Plato de Charcuteria, which consisted of 18-month "black label" Serrano, cantimpalo, grilled chorizo, chistorra, and morcilla sausages. Needing something to wash all that down with, I ordered a glass of 2004 Senorio de Sarria No. 5 from Navarra, but quickly switched to the white berry pomegranate sangria. It's not that the wine was bad -- it's just that the sangria was that good. The food ranged, using my professional food critic's criteria and scale, from "this is pretty damn good" to "holy cow, this is good!" I have no taste for mussels, so I won't comment on them, but the rest of the food was fabulous, and tine, brick-walled Las Ramblas quickly became one of my favorite tapas bars in the whole of New York. I'm afraid my vocabulary for reviewing food does not contain anything in the way of sophistication, so all I can do is reiterate the most base and obvious reactions. The Gambas San Martin and Croquetas de Jamon came out first. I have no idea why I have such an obsession with ham and cheese croquettes, but I do, and I'm at peace with it. A simple, standard dish that always makes me happy. These were some of the best I've had since delighting myself at some Spanish restaurant we wandered into more or less at random in London, based primarily on the criteria that it had a big ol' pig leg sitting in the front window. The shrimp was tasty but not to-die-for. What was to die for, however, were the roasted meatballs. I rarely eat meatballs since, as much as I love the meat, that's just too much meat in ball form. For Las Ramblas' Albondigas, however, I was happy to make an exception. Multiple times. Mushrooms as a course are not something that delighted everyone with us, but I thought the Setas al Jerez con Almendras were exceptional. The Charcuteria platter was a delirious tour of cured and encased meats, and represents the first time I've braved anything described to me by a waiter as being "a blood sausage." It was...interesting. Not bad, but not something I'm going to be bragging to the telephone switchboard operator about. The rest of the selections were delectable, though. The champ of the whole meal was the sangria. In honor of St. Patty's day, we decided it was only good and proper to drink multiple glasses of the stuff. And then pitchers. Regretfully, we didn't try the other sangria varieties (they also boast a sparkling strawberry and a red pear/white peach sangria) since the white berry pomegranate was too good to stray from. Las Ramblas isn't a big place. Nestle don West 4th Street across from a row of sex toy and lingerie shops, it's easy to miss the humble brick exterior and Las Ramblas street sign. And a group of more than four would be hard pressed to squeeze into the diminutive interior, but for small groups, or for couples, it's a cozy, inviting space to indulge in some delicious tapas, fine Spanish wines, and world-class sangria. Afterward, of course, we stumbled on the ice across the corner to over crowded Slaughtered Lamb, which we chose purely because it was next door. As part of the Jeckly and Hyde family, it's decorated with skeletons and werewolves and other such horrific iconography to make me happy. We sat at a table next to a skeleton in shackles and took in the more traditional St. Patty's Day fare of pitchers of Guinness, rousing sing-alongs to both "Danny Boy" and "Hungry Like a Wolf," and drunken, half-naked men in kilts playing bagpipes (OK, so it's Scottish, not Irish, but I'm both and that doesn't bother me. Plus, any time they bust out "Scotland the Brave"...). Well, three of them were in kilts. One was in a pleated Catholic schoolgirl's skirt. Why have I not been doing this every year? Las Ramblas: http://www.lasramblasnyc.com/ 170 W. 4th Street, between Jones and Cornelia (a block down from 6th Ave) 646.415.7924 Open 4pm-midnight Sun-Thurs, 4pm-1am Friday & Saturday The Slaughtered Lamb Pub: http://www.slaughteredlambpub.com/slaughteredlambpub/home.html 182 W. 4th Street (right across the corner from Las Ramblas) posted by Keith at 10:02 PM | 0 Comments Friday, March 16, 2007In-Flight Cocktails
Back in May of 2006, en route via American Airlines to the island paradise of Dominica (they have a place that does triple duty as a barber shop, Friday night disco, and Saturday night theater for ratty prints of old kungfu films), I ripped out this article on signature cocktails from famous bars and hotels, which was in their American Way magazine. I decided to post the recipes here because, frankly, I'm tired of having the pieces of paper lying around.
Lychee and Lemongrass Fizz (Flatiron Lounge, New York) 2 Lychee nuts 1.5 oz. Tanqueray gin 1 oz. lychee juice 3/4 oz. lemongrass syrup 1/2 oz. fresh lime juice soda water Muddle the lychee nuts in a mixing glass. Add all other ingredients except soda, and shake. Strain over fresh ice in a highball glass. Top with a splash of soda and garnish with a stick of lemongrass and a lime wheel. To make lemongrass syrup, simmer two cups of water with two dozen stalks of chopped lemongrass. Strain out lemongrass and add equal parts superfine sugar to the lemongrass water. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Can be stored in refirgerator for up to two weeks. Beach Love (Mosaic Restaurant, Scottsdale AZ) 1.5 oz. 8-year old Bacardi rum 1/2 oz. Damiana 1/2 oz. Kalani coconut liqueur 1/2 oz. pineapple juice splash of grenadine Shake first four ingredients together with ice and strain into cocktail glass. Float the grenadine and garnish with a maraschino cherry. Sosho Cooler (Matchbar, London) 3 red grapes 1 oz. Finlandia mango vodka 1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice 3/4 oz. simple syrup 1 1/3 oz. fresh apple juice 2 oz. Sauvignon Blanc dash of passion fruit syrup Muddle grapes in the base of a mixing glass, add all other indredients, and shake with ice. Strain and serve over ice cubes in a 14-oz. Catalina glass. Garnish with two fresh apple slices and one red grape. Under the Chinaman (Caffe Florian, Venice) 1 oz. white peach juice 1 oz. Havana Club 3-year old rum 3 oz. black tea Combine ingredients in a tumbler with ice. Garnish with matchstick-size strips of orange peel and pieces of fresh peach. Add brown sugar to taste if so desired. Mandarin Carre (Brandy Library, New York) 1 oz. rye whiskey 1 oz. sweet vermouth 1 oz. Mandarin Napoleon 1 teaspoon Benedictine 2 dashes Peychaud bitters 2 dashes Reagan's Orange bitters Combine all ingredients with ice in a shaker. Shake hard and strain over fresh ice in an old-fashioned glass. Take one large orange peel zest and rim the glass with its oil. Squeeze the zest over a lit wooden match, drop the zest in the cocktail, and serve. Mango Happy Family (Topaz Bar, Washington DC) 2 oz. mango puree 2 oz. Bacardi Limon 1 oz. fresh lime juice generous splash of ginger-infused simple syrup mango shooter Shake all ingredients and serve straight up in a martini glass or on the rocks. Follow up with mango shooter. To make the ginger-infused simple syrup, combine 16 oz. of water, 16 oz. sugar, and two ginger roots, peeled and thinly sliced, in a small saucepan over moderate temperature, boiling until sugar is dissolved. Let cool, then remove ginger slices before storing. To make a mango shooter, slice one mango and soak the pieces in coconut rum for 72 hours. Skewer two slices and serve atop a shot glass filled witht he coconut run you used to infuse the mangos. Drink the rum, then chase it with the mango. Canneberge Royale (Bartini, Montreal) 1 1/4 oz. Absolut Cranberry vodka 1/4 oz. Goldschlager 3 oz. cranberry juice 1 1/2 oz. champagne Combine first three ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake well, then strain into a martini glass. Add champagne and garnish with fresh raspberries. Meurice Millennium (Bar Fontainebleu, Paris) 1 1/2 oz. Cointreau 1/2 oz. rose liqueur 3 oz. rose champagne Fill cocktail glass with ice. Add Cointreau and rose liqueur. Strain into champagne flute and top with rose champagne. Garnish by dropping in a long spiral of orance peel. El Diablo (Zig Zag Cafe, Seattle) 1 1/2 oz. silver tequila 1/4 oz. creme de cassis 1/2 oz fresh lime juice 2 oz ginger ale Combine first three ingredients with ice in shaker and shake well. Pour over fresh ice in a chimney glass and top with ginger ale. Fraser River Berry Sour (Cyrus Restaurant, Healdsburg CA) 6 raspberries 1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice 1/4 oz. simple syrup 3/4 oz. Hangar One Fraser River Raspberry vodka 3/4 oz. vodka club soda Muddle raspberries with lemon juice and syrup in a mixing glass. Fill with ice and vodkas, shake, and strain into a Collins glass with fresh ice. Top with club soda and garnish with a sprig of mint. Waterloo (Employees Only, New York) 2 one-inch chunks of fresh watermelon 3/4 oz. fresh lemon juice 3/4 oz. simple syrup 1/2 oz. Campari 2 oz. Wet by Beefeater gin Muddle watermelon with lemon juice and syrup in a 12-oz Collins glass until blended into a consistent mixture. Add Campari and Wet. Fill with ice and shake briefly. Garnish with watermelon spear. Bella Peach (Sensi Bellagio, Las Vegas) 1 1/4 oz. Absolut Apeach vodka 1/4 oz. cassis de Bordeaux 1/2 oz. white peach puree 2 oz. fresh sweet and sour blend 1/4 lime, freshly squeezed splash of cranberry juice Shake all ingreidents with ice. Pour over fresh ice in highball and garnish with fresh raspberries. Harry's Summer Scene (Harry's New York Bar, Paris) 2 oz. grapefruit juice 1 oz. Grand Marnier 2 oz. golden rum Combine all ingredients ina shaker with ice. Shake and serve over fresh ice in highball glass. Garnish with sprig of mint and two cherries. The Harrison (Troquet, Boston) 3 oz. Charbay Blood Orange vodka 3 oz. rosemary infused simple syrup 1/4 oz. rosewater 1/4 oz. white creme de cacao 1/4 oz. rosemary infused simple syrup 80% cocoa dark chocolate Combine first four ingredients in a shaker with ice. Swirl remaining 1/4 oz. syrup around chilled martini glass, then pour it out. Strain shaker contents into glass. Using a zester, shave fresh chocolate over the drink. Garnish with slice of blood orange and a ribbon of chocolate. To make rosemary infused simple syrup, combine two parts water, one part sugar, several sprigs of rosemary, and splash of cranberry juice. Bring to boil and stir until sugar is dissolved. Labels: Drink posted by Keith at 3:11 PM | 0 Comments Friday, March 02, 2007Framboise Lambic We'd just seen Pan's Labyrinth, and it put everybody in a bit of a funky mood. Great film, indeed, but not exactly what you might call uplifting. But it was early yet, on a freezing cold Saturday night, so none of us felt like going home. A drink or two might lift the spirits somewhat, but I wasn't looking to drink anything especially heavy. In fact, all I really wanted at that moment was a decent pint of hard cider. Strongbow, Magners -- I wasn't going to be choosy. In an attempt to not end up in the exact same place we always ended up (One & One, on the corner of East 1st Street and 1st Ave), but also not wanting to walk more than a block or so in the biting cold, we ended up at a crowded bar called d.b.a. It wasn't really a great place -- the bartenders there drip with a sort of condescension that is half hipster elitism and half frat guy smugness. I always prefer my bartenders...well, Irish, frankly.But whatever. It was hardly intolerable. But they had no cider. I just wasn't in the mood for a beer, but the bartender sold me on something else. "We have an apple flavored beer," he said. "Also, raspberry, black cherry..." Raspberry, I thought? Well, why the hell not. So I ordered one. Lindemans Framboise Lambic. They poured the fruity red concoction into a wine glass, and I realized that I, a man of pints and scotch and bourbon, was drinking something possibly only slightly less frou-frou than an appletini (which my friend had tried to order, bless her heart, only to be rebuked by the bartender with the line, "This is a bar, sweetie, not a dance club"). With some degree of mounting shame, I toasted my friends and the devil and had myself a dainty sip. And damned if it wasn't just about the tastiest thing I'd had in years. A motivated man can justify the sudden acquisition o a taste for these fruit beers if he tries hard enough. At first, I thought just being Belgian would be enough, but then I remembered Jean-Claude Van Damme was Belgian, and I didn't want to be drinking "the Jean-Claude Van Damme of beers." But it turns out, after a little knowledge seeking, I educated myself a bit about these delightful concoctions. It turns out that the use of various fruits to flavor and spice beer predates the widespread use hops, and...well, no. Honestly, that's actually all I learned. That, and they are delicious. After trying the raspberry and the black cherry, I decided I needed to try the raspberry again And maybe one more time after that. The sweetness of the fruit is balanced out by the acidity, and the whole thing end sup being very pleasant and dangerously easy to drink. And whatever reservations I may have had about it "not being manly enough" for a man of adventure and passion such as myself were quickly washed away with the second or third bottle. I mean, if I already made my peace with margaritas and Mikes' Hard Berry and key lime martinis, Framboise Lambic was just another feather in my growing collection. And best of all -- they stock it at the supermarket where I shop, so I can really go overboard, which is usually my favorite place to go. So has anyone had the peach? Labels: Drink posted by Keith at 11:59 AM | 5 Comments |
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